¡Felices pascuas!

Pío V—allegedly named for 16th century Pope Pius V, though there are written records or even verbal conjectures to explain the odd handle—is a Nicarguan dessert typically served around Christmastime.

The name is quaint and speaks to the Nicaraguan history of Catholicism, but what I love most is that within the name are hidden another three, given that Pío V is made up of marquesote, sopa borracha, and manjar.

My father is a enamored of the Spanish language, and always urged me to read more in our mother tongue, saying that it is much more sabroso (luscious, tasty, savory). He’s entirely correct; be it poetry or song, idle prattle or malicious gossip, Spanish words are not only heard, they caress and prick the skin, melt or sour in the mouth.

Marquesote, cake in plain English, sounds of royal lineage and history, while sopa borracha, a rum-laced simple syrup the cake steeps in, induces a smirk and a laugh, given its literal translation: drunken soup. Manjar, the custard layer that tops the cake, could be just that, however the word also means delicacy and alludes to what the gods are said to have eaten.

Admittedly, when I was younger, Pío V was not on my list of favorite desserts. The soaked cake usually had an overpowering wallop of rum and if served less than chilled, the custard had a really unpleasant way of slithering and glopping down your throat. This version is a touch more tame, but is still quite cheery and festive.

An interesting note on the cake: it is traditionally made with a blend of flour and pinol, toasted white cornmeal used in a multitude of applications, such as coating whole fish prior to deep-frying. In this recipe, I toast fine white cornmeal to mimic the flavor and add a touch of unsweetened cocoa powder to deepen the flavor.

PIO V

Equipment: medium skillet, whisk,  sifter/strainer, mixing bowls, electric mixer, rubber spatula, 13- by 9-inch baking dish, cooling rack, large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, plastic wrap

For the Marquesote Cake
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
1 cup fine white cornmeal
1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
4 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
6 large eggs, separated and at room temperature
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup milk
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

For the Sopa Borracha
6 cups water
3 ½ cups sugar
4 cinnamon sticks
1 teaspoon whole cloves
Peel of 1 lemon
3/4 cup gold rum
1/2 cup raisins
12 prunes

For the Manjar
4 cups milk
2 cinnamon sticks
1 cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
4 large egg yolks
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter, cut into 4 pieces and chilled
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

For the Cake: Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 13- by 9-inch baking dish with butter.

In medium skillet over medium-low heat, cook cornmeal, stirring frequently, until light golden and fragrant, about 5 minutes.

Whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and cocoa powder in medium bowl; set aside.

In large bowl, beat egg whites and salt with whisk attachment on medium-low speed until whites begin to froth, about 1 minute. Increase speed to medium-high and beat whites until soft peaks form, 1 to 2 minutes. Slowly add sugar, then continue beating until stiff, glossy peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add egg yolks to egg whites and beat just until combined. Decrease speed to low and add flour mixture in three additions, alternating with milk, scraping sides and bottom of bowl as necessary. Add vanilla and beat just until combined.

Scrape batter into prepared baking dish. Bake until tester inserted in center of cake comes out clean, 30 to 35 minutes. Transfer cake to cooling rack and cool in pan completely, 1 to 2 hours.

For the Sopa Borracha: Bring water, sugar, cinnamon sticks, cloves, and lemon peel to boil in large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer until reduced to 4 ½ cups, about 30 minutes. Strain and discard solids.

Stir in rum, raisins, and prunes and cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Once cooled, strain once again, reserving prunes and raisins.

For the Custard: Bring milk and cinnamon sticks to boil over medium heat in small saucepan or in (glass) liquid measuring cup in microwave. Remove and reserve cinnamon sticks.

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan whisk together sugar, cornstarch, egg yolks, and salt. While vigorously whisking, add ¼ cup of hot milk, then, add remaining milk in a slow steady stream, all the while whisking.

Add reserved cinnamon sticks and bring the mixture to boil over medium heat, whisking constantly. Once mixture thickens to the consistency of yogurt, continue to boil for 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in butter and vanilla.

Press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the custard’s surface and refrigerate until cold, 2 to 3 hours. Otherwise, place the custard bowl over in an ice bath and stir until completely cooled, 10 to 15 minutes.

To Assemble: Poke cake all over with skewer or fork. Pour sopa borracha over cake. Once absorbed, pour custard over cake, smoothing out surface with rubber spatula. Top with raisins and prunes.

Chill cake at least 1 hour prior to serving.

On average, two to four baked goods are produced in my kitchen on a weekly basis. During the Christmas season, that number rises exponentially. Today for instance, had you dropped by for a visit, I could have offered you fruitcake, homemade s’mores with a marshmallow cap torched á la minute, chocolate cake roll with salted caramel buttercream filling, chocolate meringue batons, and pink peppermint meringue kisses to go along with your coffee or tea.

I’ve even ventured into cookie baking territory as evidenced by this weeks “Dreamy Crack Bars” post. Here is the other type of cookie I like to bake during this holly jolly time of year: nubby, crumbly, buttery, sugar-dusted Mexican wedding cakes, festooned and prettied up with Grinch-green pistachios, sunny orange zest, and exotic, floral cardamom.

I took them to the annual Serious Eats cookie swap just last week and will be making a few more batches for people on my “Nice” list.

ORANGE, CARDAMOM, &  PISTACHIO MEXICAN WEDDING CAKES

Equipment: food processor, electric mixer, 2 baking sheets, parchment paper, cooling rack, mixing bowls

Makes about 32 cookies

1 cup roasted, salted, shelled pistachios
1 tablespoons finely grated orange zest
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups confectioners’ sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
¾ plus 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
¼ teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pulse pistachios and orange zest in food processor until almonds are coarsely ground. Set aside.

In large bowl, beat butter on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about 1 minute. Pause mixer and add ½ cup confectioners’ sugar. Beat on low speed until fully incorporated, about 30 seconds. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl with rubber spatula; add vanilla. Mix on medium-high speed until incorporated, about 10 seconds.

Pause mixer. Add flour, ¾ teaspoon cardamom, salt, and nut mixture; mix on medium-low speed until dough comes together, 60 to 90 seconds.

With rubber spatula, scrape sides and bottom of bowl, patting dough down to unify it. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Using a 1 tablespoon measure, scoop dough out onto prepared baking sheets, then quickly roll them between palms into balls and space them ½ inch apart. Lightly press cookies down to ½-inch thickness.

Bake cookies until golden brown on bottom (they will remain pale on top) 15 to 20 minutes.

While cookies bake, whisk together remaining 1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar, remaining 1/8 teaspoon cardamom, and cinnamon in large bowl; set aside.

Transfer baking sheet to cooling rack and cool cookies on sheet for 5 minutes. Gently toss warm cookies in confectioners’ sugar and transfer to cooling rack to cool completely, 30 to 60 minutes.

Cookies will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

There was bad juju in the kitchen today. Three batches of bad caramel (one due to being f¡#*^*! by Martha again). One bowl of buttercream that didn’t set up right, despite multiple attempts to save it via ice bath—I suspect it heard me cursing it under my breath and melted into a soupy mess to spite me. A second bowl of buttercream that would not fully incorporate the salted caramel.

I washed all the pots and decided it best to hang up my apron and call it a day. (I also ran out of eggs).

These meringue buttons and batons were the only saving grace out of the afternoon’s mess. These are pink peppermint, and there’s a batch of chocolate ones cooling in the kitchen, ready to decorate tomorrow’s cake.

Because there will be cake and the buttercream and caramel will behave.

Admittedly, I am not a very enthusiastic cookie baker. I don’t mind pulling cookies out of the oven halfway through baking to carefully apply chocolate chips with tweezers so they look picture perfect, but that’s strictly for work. For fun, I’d much rather do away with the scooping, rolling, cutting,  decorating, and tweezing.

Enter these bar cookies. They’re actually the first recipe I ever developed at Cook’s Country Magazine, and probably one of my favorite. The base is a nut-speckled, buttery shortbread; the center a gooey pecan-pie-like blanket; and the top, a crisp, caramelized, crunchy crust of coconut.

They were originally titled “Dream Bars,” however after six batches and incessant eating, their highly addictive nature demands to be put in the category of illegal drugs, hence the “crack” in the title.

I’m off to bake another batch now. Wrap them up in cellophane and festive ribbons and ship off to friends and family!

DREAMY CRACK BARS
(Originally published in Cook’s Country, Apr/May 2009)

Equipment: 13- by 9-inch baking pan, heavy-duty foil, food processor, cooling rack, mixing bowls, whisk

Notes:
To toast the nuts, arrange pecans in single layer on baking sheet. Bake in center rack in preheated 350°F oven until fragrant and golden, 7 to 10 minutes, shaking pan halfway through baking to redistribute pecans. Transfer baking sheet to cooling rack and cool pecans completely before chopping.

For the Crust
Cooking spray
2 cups all-purpose or whole wheat flour
¾ cup packed dark brown sugar
½ cup pecans
¼ teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons (1 ¼ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces and chilled

For the Topping
1 ½ cups sweetened shredded coconut
1 (15-ounce) can cream of coconut
2 large eggs, at room temperature
¾ cup packed dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped (See Notes)

For the crust: Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350°F. Line 13- by 9-inch baking pan with heavy-duty foil lengthwise with one sheet, then crosswise with a second sheet to create a sling; coat with baking spray.

Process flour, brown sugar, pecans, and salt in food processor until pecans are coarsely ground. Add butter and pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Press mixture firmly into prepared baking pan. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Cool on wire rack 20 minutes.

For the topping: Stir together shredded coconut and cream of coconut in bowl. In separate bowl, whisk eggs, brown sugar, flour, baking powder, vanilla, and salt until smooth. Stir in pecans, then spread filling over cooled crust. Dollop heaping teaspoons of coconut mixture over filling, then spread into as even a layer as possible with rubber spatula or back of spoon (it will be patchy).

Bake until topping is deep golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool in pan 20 minutes, then, use excess foil to pull out onto wire rack. Cool completely, about 2 hours.

Once cooled, remove foil and cut into 24 pieces. (Bars can be refrigerated in airtight container for 5 days.)

I rarely indulge in indecorous displays of emotion, but I’m feeling unusually warm and full of fuzzy feelings. Might be all the wine I consumed last weekend and the sticky toffee pudding I’ve been tucking away since Monday afternoon… And so:

Many, many thanks to the Sacasa-Castillo family for hosting Thanksgiving this year!

The house was bursting at the seams with siblings, cousins, friends, a soon-to-be family member (welcome, Daniel!), and a troop of children—all small, but mighty enough to strike fear in the hearts of even the most stalwart of enemy ranks.

Eager volunteer cooks and dishwashers neatly arranged themselves in the kitchen and I must congratulate everyone—myself most especially—for not breaking down, stomping off, or spewing out briny language. In the span of a few hours we tackled a Bruce-sized bird that definitely needed a bigger boat, mashed potatoes, roasted butternut squash and Brussels sprouts, fried shallots, (twice, as I burned the first batch), gravy, apple galette, chocolate cake, and a stack of plates at least six feet tall.

Gold stars especially to the mini-chefs Alexandra Sofía, Mariana Lucía, Carolina Cecilia, and Leonte Andrés who really put their nimble little fingers to use in the making of desserts for dinner…doughnut muffins for breakfast…and popsicles in case you had any room left.

Oh, and Emmita, who just sat around and allowed her roly-poly self to be pinched and squeezed all weekend.

This a photo I snapped while at flea market in Clignancourt in Paris last fall. It seemed very apropos today.

This weekend, the hot summer sun will melt into the horizon and leave the sky dark and stark, a clean canvas to be Jackson Pollock-ed by blazing fireworks. Sit back, relax, crack open a frosty bottle of beer, and dig into one of these outrageous hot dogs.

Photo by Kate Kelley

ALOHA DOGS
Makes 8 hot dogs

¼ cup vegetable oil
8 hot dogs
1 (7-ounce) tin SPAM, cut into ¼-inch thick slices
8 fresh pineapple spears
2 cups teriyaki sauce
8 hot dog buns
Sriracha sauce (optional)
1 rice cake, crumbled

- Heat grill.

- Lightly oil grill and arrange hot dogs in single layer. Brush SPAM slices and pineapple spears with teriyaki sauce and arrange on grill in single layer. Cook until hot dogs are cooked through and SPAM and pineapple are lightly charred, turning with tongs as necessary.

- To serve, tuck hot dogs and pineapple spears into buns. Cut SPAM into cubes and add to hot dogs. Top with generous amount of teriyaki sauce and Sriracha sauce to taste. Sprinkle with crumbled rice cake.

Photo by Kate Kelley

DOWNTOWN L.A. DOGS
Makes 8 hot dogs

Notes: Use your favorite brand of hot dogs and bacon for this recipe. Secret ingredient: cornstarch! It acts like glue and keeps the bacon form peeling off the hot dogs while they grill.
Optional garnishes: sliced radishes, lime wedges, hot sauce (I prefer Valentina), and crema or queso fresco

8 hot dogs
½ cup cornstarch
8 bacon strips
4 ripe avocados, pitted, peeled, and cut into ½-inch dice
Juice of 2 limes
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
2 cups tightly packed cilantro leaves, chopped
½ cup mint leaves, finely chopped
¼ cup minced white onion
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 ripe beefsteak tomato, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 jalapeño peppers
¼ cup vegetable oil
½ cup mayonnaise
8 hot dog buns

- Heat grill.

- Place cornstarch in shallow bowl. Roll each hot dog in cornstarch, shaking off excess. Wrap each hot dog with one strip of bacon; set aside.

- To make the guacamole: Lightly mash the avocado in medium bowl with a fork—some chunks should remain. Add lime juice, vinegar, cilantro, mint, onion, garlic, and tomato and lightly stir to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper; set aside.

- Brush jalapeños with oil and grill until charred. Lightly oil grill and arrange hot dogs in single layer. Cook until bacon is cooked through and lightly charred, turning with tongs as necessary.

- Chop 2 of the charred jalapeños and stir into guacamole. To serve, spread inside of hot dog buns with mayonnaise, tuck in hot dogs, and top with guacamole. Serve with optional garnishes (See Notes) and remaining charred jalapeños.

CHIC DOGS
Makes 8 sandwiches

Notes: Ficelles are slender baguettes. Purchase your favorite type of sausage for this recipe—I used a garlic-herb variety. I prefer buttery, nutty Stilton as a topping.

8 fresh sausages
¼ vegetable oil
4 cups tightly packed mesclun salad blend
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 ficelles, cut into half crosswise, then split lengthwise
1 cup grainy mustard
2 cups cornichons
1½ cups (6 ounces) blue cheese crumbles

- Heat grill.

- Prick sausages all over with fork. Lightly oil grill with vegetable oil and arrange sausages in single layer. Cook until sausages are cooked through. Transfer to cutting board and slice sausages on the bias.

- Season salad greens with salt and pepper and toss with olive oil.

- To serve, spread inside of ficelles with a generous amount of mustard and stuff with salad, sausage slices, and cornichons. Sprinkle with blue cheese crumbles.

ALL-AMERICAN DOGS
Makes 8 hot dogs

Notes: Use your favorite brand of hot dogs and BBQ sauce for this recipe. And od course, you can use homemade macaroni-and-cheese instead of store-bought.
Optional garnishes and sides: pickles, mustard, potato chips or fries

1 (7.25-ounce) box macaroni and cheese
8 hot dogs
¼ cup vegetable oil
2 cups BBQ sauce
8 hot dog buns

- Heat grill.

- Prepare macaroni-and-cheese according to package instructions. Transfer to bowl and cover with foil to keep warm.

- Lightly oil grill and arrange hot dogs in single layer. Cook until hot dogs are cooked through and lightly charred, turning with tongs as necessary.

- To serve, tuck hot dogs into buns and top with generous amounts of BBQ sauce and macaroni-and-cheese.

ABOUT THE PHOTOS: I spent a recent rainy day with my talented friend, photographer Kate Kelley, working on these shots—our plans to shoot on a sunny roof deck were foiled, but we turned my tiny living room into a studio.
These photos are two of a series—do take a look at the rest in my personal styling portfolio, and please check out Kate’s (in collaboration with Jonathan Beller) breathtaking work in “Resilient, A Portrait of Sierra Leone.”

My mother and both of my grandmothers are extraordinary cooks. They  all played a role in teaching me to cook, eat, and love all aspects of food. These recipes, from classic smoked salmon and dill cream cheese batons to a twist on retro ambrosia, are inspired by  memories I have of those wonderful women and the times we’ve shared in the kitchen. I hope you enjoy them with the special ones in your life.

Happy Mother’s Day!

SMOKED SALMON BATONS
Serves 6 to 8

1 baguette
8 ounces whipped cream cheese
½ cup dill, finely chopped
2 teaspoons juice and 1 teaspoon finely grated zest from 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 ounces smoked salmon
½ English cucumber, thinly sliced

- Cut baguette in half crosswise. Cut each half in half lengthwise, then in half again lengthwise to make 8 slim batons.

- In medium bowl, combine cream cheese, dill, lemon juice and zest, and salt and pepper to taste.

- Spread each baton with lemon-dill cream cheese, then top with salmon and cucumber. Serve.

BACON-LEEK TOURTE
Serves 6 to 8

Notes: I find that the easiest way to wash leeks is to slice them into half-moons as called for in the recipe, then placing them in a salad spinner filled with cold water. After a few minutes, the sediment will settle to the bottom. Lift the leeks out of the water with the spinner basket and repeat process 2 or 3 times until the leeks are free of sediment.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
All-purpose flour for dusting the work surface
2 sheets (one 17.3-ounce package) Pepperidge Farm frozen puff pastry, thawed according to package instructions
6 slices thick-cut bacon, coarsely chopped
1 ½ pounds leeks, white and pale green parts thinly sliced into half-moons (See Notes)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
12 large eggs, well beaten
1 cup (4 ounces) shredded sharp white cheddar cheese

For egg wash:
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 egg yolk
Pinch salt

- Butter a 9-inch pie plate with 1 tablespoon butter. Dust clean, dry work surface and rolling pin with flour. Roll 1 sheet puff pastry out to about 13- by 12-inches. Place pastry in pie plate, then gently press into bottom and sides. Trim excess with kitchen shears, leaving about 1-inch overhang. Prick pastry all over with tines of fork. Refrigerate.

- Dust work surface with additional flour, then, roll out second sheet puff pastry to about 13- by 12-inches Set pastry on a parchment paper-lined cutting board or baking sheet and refrigerate.

- Meanwhile, cook bacon in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. With slotted spoon, transfer bacon to paper towel-lined plate. Discard all but 2 tablespoons fat.

- Add leeks to now-empty skillet and cook until tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to plate. Season with salt and pepper.

- Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter to empty skillet. Reduce heat to medium-low. Season eggs salt and pepper. Cook eggs, stirring very frequently with heat-proof rubber spatula, until set but still soft, 5 to 7 minutes.  Transfer to plate and cool completely, about 10 minutes.

- Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and preheat oven to 375°F. Place one third of eggs in even layer in prepared pie plate. Top with half of bacon, half of leeks, and half of cheese. Top with additional one third of eggs, then remaining bacon, leeks, cheese, and eggs. Top with second puff pastry sheet and trim off excess to match bottom 1-inch overhang. Crimp edges and with sharp knife, cut 4 vent holes on top.  Brush with egg wash and bake until puffed and golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Cool to room temperature before serving.

AMBROSIA CUPCAKES
Makes 12 cupcakes

Notes: This recipe is easily doubled.
- Cream of coconut is sweet and thick and can usually be found in the liquor aisle—don’t mistake it for coconut milk. Also, be sure to stir the cream of coconut before using as it often separates in the can.
- Gelatin and cream cheese in the frosting stabilize the whipped cream.

1 cup plus 6 tablespoons cake flour
½ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
¾ cup sugar
8 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons can cream of coconut (See Notes)
2 large eggs, separated
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ cup buttermilk
½ teaspoon unflavored gelatin
1 tablespoons water
4 ounces cream cheese, softened
¼ cup confectioners’ sugar
1 cups heavy cream, chilled
¼ cup sweetened flaked coconut
1 cup mini-marshmallows
½ cup canned pineapple chunks, drained and chopped
½ cup mandarin orange wedges, canned or fresh

- Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 12-cup muffin tin with liners.

- Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in medium bowl; set aside. With mixer fitted with paddle attachment, beat sugar and butter on medium-high speed until light, about 2 minutes. Add ½ cup cream of coconut and beat until fluffy, about 1 minute. Beat in egg yolks and ½ teaspoon vanilla extract.

- Reduce speed to low and add reserved flour mixture in 3 additions, alternating with buttermilk. Mix just until combined, scraping sides and bottom of bowl with rubber spatula as needed.

- Fit mixer with whisk attachment and place egg whites in clean, dry mixing bowl. Beat whites medium-high speed until stiff peaks form, 3 to 4 minutes. Fold whites into batter.

- Fill prepared tins and bake until cake tester inserted in center of cupcakes comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to cooling racks and cool 10 minutes in tins. Set cupcakes directly onto racks and cool completely, about 1 hour.

- Meanwhile, combine gelatin and water in a small bowl. Microwave until the gelatin dissolves, about 20 seconds. Cool to room temperature, about 5 minutes. Place remaining cream of coconut (about ¼ cup), cream cheese, confectioners’ sugar, remaining ½ teaspoon vanilla, and dissolved gelatin in the chilled bowl and whisk on medium speed until whippy, about 2 minutes. Add the cream and whisk just until thickened, about 2 minutes. Fold in coconut, pineapple, marshmallows, and mandarin wedges. Frost cupcakes and serve.

I baked, frosted, and bedazzled 100 cookies to decorate a Christmas tree for Woman’s Day TV segment. I continue to find sprinkles embedded in my living room carpet.

Do you know, it takes an awfully long time to settle back in after being away for Christmas? No? Then you must be much more organized than I, although, I truly did putter about like new wind-up doll stocked with fresh batteries writing correspondence and making phone calls, taking on a Mount Everest-esque heap of laundry, sorting bills, picking sprinkles out from the carpet (see photo above), mailing out belated holiday gifts…Don’t look at me like that—I know I was delinquent in my elf duties. The worst of it is, I wrote a whole blog entry about how 2010 was the year when I would send out cards and presents in a timely fashion. Lump of coal in my stocking.

What did you do for the holidays? Lots of presents, clinking bubble-filled crystal, and manageable family brawls, I hope. For me, it was southern California, which was a complete washout. The sun refused to shine in its usual carefree way, the house windows looked like they were weeping. No matter—I got to spend some quality time with my mom in the kitchen*.  We cooked and baked every day, and, while this may seem like a non-vacation, we look forward to our time in the kitchen, and odd ducks that we are, actually enjoy doing the dishes.

And now, the pièce de résistance! Nicas, gather round and take notes, because this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, a very special Christmas gift from me to you. My grandmother’s top-secret family recipe for relleno! My mamamá would surely murder me in my sleep for sharing, but she doesn’t use the internet…Does she?

For those non-compatriots, a brief explanation of Nicaraguan relleno:

Relleno means stuffing, but erase your mental pictures of American bread-cube stuffing and dressing because this version is of an entirely different genus and species. I’ve found no original recipe, no documentation on who made this recipe first, but relleno is a contentious subject to Nicas;  recipes are usually closely guarded and unique to each household.

Relleno is made by combining finely chopped pork (I’ve heard of people using chicken, but in my book, that’s sacrilege), panade, and many condiments and stirring everything in a pot for many hours. Mamamá’s recipe is famous and, when she was younger, used to be available for purchase. I remember her standing over a cauldron-like pot in the cement patio in her kitchen in Granada, arduously pushing against a broomstick of a spoon to prevent the bubbling mixture from sticking, beads of sweat wrung out by the deepening furrows in her brow. Granted, she was making at least sixty pounds’ worth, but relleno is labor intensive even in small batches.

Everything but the kitchen sink.

This year, my mom and I started with an insignificant two pounds of pork and it still required the use of two large pots and three hours of stirring. Relleno’s consistency is thick, but spreadable in the manner that rillette or refried beans are. Its color is deep, burnt sienna studded with the green and deep purple of olives, capers, and raisins. The flavor is a balanced blend of sweet, salty, and sour. In some areas of Nicaragua, on Christmas Eve the main event at dinner is a roast hen stuffed with relleno, but my family normally serves it alongside a more gringo roast turkey.

It makes up in flavor what it lacks in looks.

Without further ado, the recipe. ¡Les queda la receta para el año que viene!

RELLENO NAVIDENO CHAMORRO BARILLAS

You will need the largest mixing bowls in your kitchen, and your largest pots. I used a Dutch oven and a 12-inch skillet with straight sides. While the depth of the pots is important, it’s not as important as the surface area. Relleno will start as a pale, soupy mixture, but as it cooks, it will reduce and thicken. The larger the surface area of your pot, the more quickly it the relleno will achieve desired consistency.

This recipe is at its core, my grandmother’s, but in every household, seasonings and garnishes vary. In the ingredients list I call for a base amount, but you are free to add more or less salt, Worcestershire, olives, capers, etc., to taste. If this is your first time with the recipe, I recommend following it closely and, on your second and third tries, making additions and subtractions.

And please, don’t contact me if you choose to defile the recipe with outrageous additions like cumin or choose to start with raw ground pork. No. No. No.

For the base: Cooking the Pork
2 pounds pork loin, cut into 1½-inch chunks
Salt and pepper
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and cut into quarters
1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into quarters
6 garlic cloves, peeled
2 bay leaves

- Generously season the pork with salt and pepper. Place the pork in a Dutch oven or large pot along with onion, bell pepper, garlic, and bay leaves. Fill the pot with enough water to cover (2 to 3 quarts) and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until the pork is cooked through, about 20 minutes, skimming the surface with a large spoon from time to time.

- With a slotted spoon, transfer pork to a large bowl. Strain the broth into a second large bowl and discard the cooked vegetables.

For the relleno
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
1 medium yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes
2 loaves white sandwich bread, such as Wonder®, about 2 pounds total, torn into pieces
6 large eggs, well beaten
¼ cup Worcestershire, plus additional for seasoning to taste
½ cup sweet gherkins,  finely chopped
6 tablespoons granulated sugar, plus additional for seasoning to taste
1 pound unsalted butter
Salt
8 ounces raisins
1½ cups pimento stuffed green olives, liquid reserved
1 cup cocktail onions, drained
½ cup capers, drained

- Place the half of the cooked pork, onion pieces, green and yellow bell pepper pieces, garlic cloves, plum tomatoes and their liquid, and ½ cup of reserved broth in a food processor and pulse until finely ground. Transfer to a large bowl and repeat with the remaining half of the pork, vegetables, and an additional ½ cup of reserved broth. Transfer to the large bowl with first batch.

- In a separate large bowl, combine the bread with 8 cups of reserved broth. Mash the mixture with a fork until the bread is completely dissolved. Thoroughly stir in the beaten eggs, Worcestershire sauce, gherkins, and sugar. Add the ground pork mixture and thoroughly combine.

- Divide the butter between two large, deep pots. Melt the butter over medium-high heat. Divide the relleno mixture between the two pots and begin stirring. After about 45 minutes of cooking, the relleno should begin to thicken and acquire a bronze tint. Stir in the raisins, olives, cocktail onions, and capers and continue to stir. Taste and season with salt, Worcestershire, and/or sugar (I like to add some of the reserved olive brine in lieu of salt). Two to three hours of stirring later, your mission is completed.

- Serve relleno as a side at the Christmas table. Leftovers are great on toast or crackers,  or may be frozen in a zipper-lock bag for up to two months.

*I say “quality.” Mom might have other qualifiers to describe the experience. Pobrecita.

Every year for the past many years of my adult life, I have made grand plans to send out cards (!) and bake holiday treats (!) for friends and family. In January 2004 I stockpiled Christmas cards to be prepared for Next Christmas. Oh,  Next Christmas… I would buy special baking molds to make little cakes from family recipes! I would be ready to tuck the dainty goodies into cellophane wrappers and tie them up with festive ribbon! I would buy Mason jars and fill them with homemade, triple-chocolate hot cocoa mix and (also homemade!) peppermint marshmallows! LOTS of exclamation points!!!!!!!!!

It’s 2010—Next Christmas, Part VI. Those cards are still in my stationery drawer. Next to some Mr.-&-Mrs. Sacasa stationery which I am pretty sure were meant to be used for wedding present thank-you-notes in 2003. Hhhmmm.

But, wait. What’s that? Do I hear sleigh bells? Are you about to witness a Christmas miracle? I finally made Next Christmas happen!

And there’s still time to squeeze into my Nice List.

PUDIN MARY
This delicately orange-scented cake was a constant at our breakfast table. I don’t know who Mary (pronounced “Meh-ri” at home) was or is, but we love her recipe.  I’ve added cranberry sauce to this version for some Christmas zhoozh—feel free to use Thanksgiving leftovers, make your favorite family recipe, or leave it out altogether.

2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
1½ cups sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange zest, plus 3 tablespoons orange juice
3 large eggs
2½ cups all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup milk
4 teaspoons baking powder
*Optional: 2 cups homemade cranberry sauce

- Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter (or spray with Pam) a Bundt pan.

- Cream the butter and sugar (use the paddle attachment if using a stand mixer) in a large bowl on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the orange zest and mix until incorporated, about 10 seconds. Add the eggs, one by one, beating about 30 seconds after each egg is added to ensure incorporation. Stop the mixer and, with a rubber spatula, scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl.

- With the mixer on medium-low speed, add the flour and salt, alternating with the milk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl once more, and mix just until the batter is smooth, about 30 more seconds.

- In a small bowl, mix together the orange juice and baking powder (it will foam). With the rubber spatula, fold the orange juice mixture into the batter. *If using, fold in the cranberry sauce.

- Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake the cake until a toothpick comes out clean when inserted, 45 to 60 minutes. Transfer the cake to a cooling rack and let sit for 10 minutes. Using oven mitts, invert the cake onto a platter and let cool completely—at least 2 hours—before serving.